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36 hours in Menton, France

Once the smell of sunscreen fades, tan lines along with it, and the restaurants and shops begin to close, one wonders how to spend 36 hours in a place so desolate. This itinerary is here to help you for when the weather starts to make you question what you’re doing here.

36 hours in Menton, France

Maia Zasler

The Pearl of France is situated between sprawling, sparkling sea and ample green mountain peaks, entre bières roses pétillantes monégasque et Aperol Spritz. Menton is a relatively quiet town known for its historically largest export: lemons—most of which, nowadays, come from Spain in preparation for the annual Fête du Citron. In the summer, Menton’s cobbled streets come alive with tourists eager to enjoy the man-made beach at Sablette, try “Michelin-star” ice cream, and take aesthetic TikTok videos and photos along the picturesque Rue Longue. For the 300-ish students who attend the local university, Sciences Po, Menton is colored with further value; insight into the town’s off-season gives its brand a darker dimension. Once the smell of sunscreen fades, tan lines along with it, and the restaurants and shops begin to close, one wonders how to spend 36 hours in a place so desolate. This itinerary is here to help you for when the weather starts to make you question what you’re doing here. 


Itinerary

Friday


3 p.m. 


Menton has always been balanced along a border; it has straddled the frontier of Nice County and the Republic of Genoa since 1860, when France purchased the town from the Royal Grimaldi family of Monaco. Your entry into Menton from the Centre-Ville train station exemplifies its Italian roots; you’re welcomed by a spray-painted rendition of Michaelangelo’s David, “Slay-vid.” The 2-dimensional statue’s voluptuous curves create an impeccable ambiance to the ongoing construction outside of the station. 


Spend a few minutes exploring the so-called “New Town.” Walk straight down the street, past the Casino Barrière and out to the beach. Stroll along the coast and take in the breeze; the views are truly magnificent. 


Matimello by Atelier Boulanger is the best for baguettes; replenish your strength with some carbohydrates. Enjoy it on the go or outside on the beach. You should continue until you get to the Jean Cocteau Museum. Although the modernist version is (also) continuously under construction, the smaller display of Cocteau’s art is cheap and worth the visit. Cocteau, a resident of Saint Jean Cap Ferrat, fell in love with this little lemon town and illuminated it and its residents with vibrant pastels and dynamic sketches.


5 p.m.


You’ve got your culture in! You can conveniently continue walking and taking in the views by venturing up the stairs and walking along the fort. Alternatively, make a right turn out of the museum doors and head behind the wall. Sit on the large rocks and listen to the waves crash as sky slowly deepens into orange and pink hues. If you're feeling particularly European, this is the opportunity to indulge in a picturesque cigarette. 


You can make your way back around towards the Casino, by the Carrefour grocery store on Avenue Félix Faure. Sit in the Chapelle Saint Roch for some more quiet, or rest in Noailles for a cozy cup of tea—strawberry is the best. 


6:30 p.m.


Although it may be a bit early for dinner by CET standards, restaurants will (possibly) start to open around 7 p.m. There are several options for non-French or Italian cuisine, which you may or may not have tired of. Indian Delices, Eventail, and Coté Sud present delectable albeit pricey choices. Vulcano is a fan-favorite—although Pizza Express is arguably better. Both maintain the added benefit of a flexible dining location. It could be chilly, but consider heading back to the beach, by Sablettes, or going to the square adjacent to Rue de la République. 


9:30 p.m.


It’s no secret: by evening time, the only place to go is Le Retro. Request some delicious olives along with your drink and great company!


Saturday


8 a.m.


Get an early morning! The crisp air during a morning walk is especially refreshing. After drinking the obligatory espresso at any number of convenient cafés, buy some fruit or goat cheese and take it on your way to the Olive Grove, also known as Parc du Pian. Spend some moments searching for sheep, resting and reading under the trees. Once you’re ready to go, walk across the street to the Jardin Botanique. For 2,50€ you can enter and wander around, enjoying the luscious greens and peaceful atmosphere. 


11 a.m.


At this point, you’ve probably had enough of the outdoors. Should you need to study, you can make the Odyssean trek over to the New Town and settle into Menton’s library. If you prefer to do your work in a café, Lagom, Edwige, O’Petit Corner and Eunoia Coffee are all worth the 30 seconds it takes to search on your phone to confirm their opening hours. You can also take a quick train ride to another “town” lined with contrived-looking streets: Monaco. The Starbucks outside of the train station is a quality study spot. 


1 p.m.


Saturday afternoons can be slow. Quicken the pace by catching a film at Cinema Eden. Sneak in some of your own snacks to sweeten the experience. Stop in the thrift store across the street to browse the (limited) racks of clothes. You could instead walk the other direction, towards campus, and venture into the antique shop adjacent to the Darty. Get lost in rows of dusty plates and posters; let yourself be charmed by the cramped space and piles of useless—yet endearing—items. You could even treat yourself to yoga (two studio options!) or getting your nails done. 


3 p.m.


You’ve made it through 24 hours! More than halfway there. Use this time to explore Menton a bit more. Walk to the cemetery; if you ascend upwards, weaving through the familiar corridors of Rue Longue, you’ll find yourself at the base of the Cemetery of the Old Chateau. If you’re artistically inclined, take a sketchbook. The crowded aisles juxtaposed by the solid blue sky and sea provide unparalleled inspiration. 


Or instead, stop into the multiplicity of art galleries in Menton. Local residents—when caught in a good mood—are happy to share their work. From paintings to ceramics to postcards, consider picking something up as a keepsake. Along this artistic vein, you can stop to admire the many mosaics that are assembled in plain sight (e.g., in front of the Basilique Saint Michel Archange). 


If you find history more engaging, take a self-led walking tour of the town. Search for the many plaques scattered around the Old Town that provide information about Menton’s past and relevant “landmarks.” If you do not read French, be sure to take your phone equipped with a photo translator—or a francophone friend. 


6:30 p.m. 


For dinner, there is again a wide array of options. By the train station, O’Sole Mio is fantastic for a sit-down meal—a place to take family and friends! Across the street, Citron d’Or may be less popular, but maintains a solid To Good to Go dining experience. Les Enfants Terribles is an iconic destination, situated perfectly on Place du Cap and the entry point to Rue Longue. 


8:30 p.m. +


Advertisements online will portray Menton as this quaint, sunshine-y town; at its best, it’s a summer spot, an elevated after-thought to a trip to Nice. But Menton is more than that. What makes the town special is not its views or activities, its cafés or restaurants, but the people in it. The best way to “pass the time” is to spend it with friends, the unique connections we make on campus and outside of the classroom. Potluck dinner parties, karaoke or movie nights, cups of tea over games of chess or backgammon, scoops of Picard ice cream during late night study sessions… It's the small moments that make 36 hours seem like no time at all.


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