
Viktorie Voriskova
March
In 1978, Edward Said published Orientalism, a groundbreaking analysis exploring the relationship between the Western world (the Occident) and the Middle East and North Africa (the Orient). In this work, Said argues that the West constructed an exotic, stereotypical, and often demeaning image of the East to justify its colonization and political domination over the region in terms of a “civilizing mission.”
Said’s work challenged racist assumptions, strongly influenced postcolonial studies and started numerous political and sociological debates that continue to this day. Although it has been several decades since the publishing of this book and despite the groundbreaking effects it has had on decolonial movements, many of Said’s observations are still the reality in the society of the twenty-first century.
Even today, people still judge the Middle East and North Africa without ever having studied it and not knowing anything about it. So, how has the relationship between the Occident and the Orient evolved since the publication of Edward Said’s Orientalism?
One of the most enduring forms of Orientalism is Western fascination with travel to the MENA region. From colonial-era explorers to modern Instagram influencers, there is a long history of Western visitors seeking an "authentic" Eastern experience. However, these experiences are often superficial and shaped by preconceived notions rather than reality.
For example, many Western tourists buy traditional local clothing to “blend in” during their travels, despite not understanding its cultural significance. Additionally, travellers often draw conclusions about an entire country based on its tourist attractions, ignoring the complexities of daily life and local perspectives.
Furthermore, travel to Middle Eastern countries remains relatively affordable for Western tourists, particularly in former French colonies like Morocco, which broke tourism records in 2024. These destinations are especially attractive to people who want to “explore,” but within a budget and close to their homes. Access to most countries of North Africa is very easy for most European citizens—there is no visa requirement for them. Additionally, shared language, especially for French travellers, makes their vacation even more comfortable, allowing them to avoid having to step outside of their comfort zone, be it financially, linguistically or culturally, while still being able to claim that they went on an “exploratory” holiday, since they travelled to Africa.
Despite the popularity of some of these places and them very much not being off the beaten path, these places are still perceived as “niche” and “exotic.” This is further reinforced by the fact that many tourists stick to highly curated experiences in Marrakech, Cairo or Dubai, rarely going beyond the controlled environments of resorts and marketplaces during their “explorations.”
This whole experience of a spectacle mirrors 19th-century Orientalist travel narratives in which European explorers chose to go to the Middle East since they saw it as something both alluring and dangerous, romanticizing its beauty while emphasizing its supposed inferiority, as people still do today.
Another form of modern Orientalism is the global fashion trends and social media. The fascination with “ethnic” fashion has become widespread. Wearing so-called "Oriental" clothing is considered stylish, although it is cultural appropriation rather than appreciation.
Instagram and other social media platforms support and popularize these trends even further, playing a major role in the popularization of these trends. For instance, influencers often wear flowing kaftans, harem pants, or Indian bindis as part of festival fashion, detaching these items from their historical and cultural contexts. Interestingly, we can observe a similar trend with Slavic fashion—it has gained popularity not only on social media but even in globally popular chain stores, with traditional embroidered blouses becoming mainstream fashion items, despite having deep cultural and historical roots, which go unacknowledged within this appropriation.
As with travel and “explorations,” this trend reflects a broader historical pattern. Just as 19th-century Orientalist painters like Jean-Léon Gérôme and Eugène Delacroix depicted Eastern women in luxurious yet decontextualized settings, today’s fashion industry does the same with Eastern aesthetics for Western consumers.
Lastly, Orientalism remains in modern society to this day, even in the realm of politics, although it has a slightly shifted role. The traditional Orientalist stereotypes made the “East” seem exotic and backward; modern political discourse shows the region as unstable and full of religious extremism and oppression. Western media often focuses on negative aspects of Middle Eastern politics, ignoring local perspectives and any developments that have taken place.
For example, Saudi Arabia’s Vision 2030 initiative, which is an ambitious plan to modernize the country’s economy and social policies, has been widely criticized by Western analysts. While many of the critiques are valid, pointing out the large amount of underpaid labour which has to labour on the construction of many of these ambitious projects, others stem from long-standing Orientalist views that assume the region is incapable of progress, therefore describing the project as completely impossible or going as far as stating that it is a lie. Similarly, the UAE's labor policies, though controversial and still oppressive, have improved over the years, yet the country is often judged more harshly than Western nations with similar labor issues.
All this goes hand in hand with the persistent preconception of Islam. Many Western observers critique Islamic traditions without any real understanding of the religion. This extends to debates on women’s rights, where Muslim women are often portrayed as oppressed, ignoring the diversity of experiences and agency within Islamic societies.
While Orientalism has shifted in form, it remains deeply embedded in Western perceptions of the MENA region. Today, Orientalist attitudes are often linked to Islamophobia and fears of terrorism and migration, rather than simply seeing the region as exotic and backward.
Although Said described a discourse that framed the East as exotic and primitive, today’s Orientalism rather links the Middle Eastern and North African identities with terrorism, migration and religious extremism. The underlying assumption remains the same: the East is still seen as "other" and needs Western intervention or critique.
Photo source: Ema Nevrelova