A Local's Guide to Istanbul

Istanbul —  a home to a range of civilizations from the Byzantines to the Ottomans, an inspiration for the most beautiful songs and poems, and a bridge for connecting continents and cultures. There are hundreds and thousands of ways to describe Istanbul, yet words remain inadequate for explaining the art of living in the city. Running to catch the ferry from Üsküdar to Beşiktaş, reading a book while listening to the sound of waves and seagulls, feeling the warmth of hot tea in your freezing hands and talking about Turkish politics with a random taxi driver. Not a single day is quite the same in this overcrowded but lively city. To properly experience the unique spirit of Istanbul, visiting the tourist attractions is barely enough – but don’t worry, this guide is here to help you discover the must-see parts of Istanbul from a local’s perspective. 

Where to Stay

Taksim:

Taksim, located on the European side of Istanbul, is one of the most central and lively parts of the city with its various restaurants, shops, and lively night-life. From Istiklal Avenue to the Galata Tower, this district serves as a fusion of history and modernity at the same time. Whether you take the infamous tram in Istiklal, the M2 metro line with a sea view or the funicular from the Beyoglu Tunnel, it is extremely easy to use public transportation to traverse Taksim. Taksim is also a popular spot amongst tourists thanks to its wide range of hotels. If you are looking for a historical experience and have a flexible budget, Pera Palace Hotel might be a good choice to consider. Initially built in 1892 to host passengers of the Orient Express, Pera Palace welcomed many historical figures including Shah of Iran Reza Pahlevi, King of Great Britain Edward VIII, and American First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy. The hotel also has museum rooms of authors Ernest Hemingway, Agatha Christie and founder of modern Turkey Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, which are open to visit. The exterior and interior design of Pera Palace reflects the architecture of the late 19th century and the live jazz and swing music from the 1920s in the lobby takes you on a one-way trip to the past. Pera Palace is definitely one of the historical places that warrants a visit even if you are staying elsewhere. 

Beşiktaş:

Even though it’s not as crowded as Taksim, Beşiktaş is also one of the most central areas in the European side of the city. As this district is located near the seaside, ferries are the easiest and most common public transport. Since there is no direct metro line from Beşiktaş, dependence on ferries and taxis may be a problem for a tourist staying there. Still, if you choose to stay in Beşiktaş, there is a huge selection of Airbnb options varying in price – finding an accommodation close to Akaretler Avenue would be a smart choice. Akaretler, with its renovated architectural design from the Ottoman era, is a popular neighborhood amongst local residents of Istanbul due to its variety of restaurants, coffee shops and bars. At the same time, it is close to the most important museums like the National Painting Museum, the Naval Museum and Dolmabahçe Palace. Beşiktaş is also the home for a fan-favorite football team carrying the same name. So, if you see a bunch of people in black and white jerseys chanting “Gücüne güç katmaya geldik/ Formanda ter olmaya geldik/ Beşiktaş seninle ölmeye geldik, Beşiktaş!” , don’t be scared, there probably is just a match. Just tag along with the crowd and enjoy the enthusiasm of our beloved national sport. 

Kadıköy:

Also known as the most liberal district of Istanbul, Kadıköy is the heart of youth and free spirit. Located in the Asian side of Istanbul, it is the most popular hang-out spot for people ranging from the age of 13 to late 30s. The Street of Bars is the best place to drink beer and eat french fries on a Friday night and Moda Coastal Park is the best place to have a picnic with your friends or read a book by the sea. When searching for an Airbnb in Kadıköy, Moda will definitely be the neighborhood you would want to choose. Although it should be noted that there are not many historical monuments to visit in Kadıköy, so it’s more of a favorite spot for local residents, rather than tourists. However, it’s extremely easy to access other parts of Istanbul by ferries and metro. 

Must-See Places & Monuments

Galata Tower & Istiklal Avenue:

Galata Tower, one of the most well known symbols of Istanbul, is located in Taksim. The Turkish myth is that you will marry the person you visit the Galata Tower with, so be careful about who you take there! There usually is quite a long queue to get inside and I would say it is not worth the wait. Rather, I would recommend having dinner at a rooftop restaurant with a view of the city and Galata Tower, such as the Barnathan Cafe Brasserie or Simone Beyoğlu. Istiklal Avenue is the most lively pedestrian street of Istanbul. Just take a walk down the street and you will see various passages (Çiçek Passage, Suriye Passage, Atlas Passage, etc.), historic churches (St. Anthony of Padua Church and Roman Catholic Church of Santa Maria Draperis) and many vintage shops. However, to truly experience Taksim, just take a quick turn from Istiklal and enter a random street. The narrow streets around Istiklal are truly mesmerizing – walking around spontaneously and aimlessly is the best way to explore this district. 

Sultanahmet Area:

The Sultanahmet area, also known as the Old City, is where most important historical landmarks are located. This area is located in Fatih district near the Sirkeci station of the Marmaray metro line. Sultanahmet can be a bit overwhelming with the huge crowds of confused tourists and stressed locals, so it is important to know your way around. I would recommend starting with Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. Hagia Sophia was originally built as Christian Church under the Byzantine Empire, but after the conquest of Constantinople in 1453, Mehmed II ordered it to be repurposed as a mosque. When you visit Hagia Sophia, you can notice both the Byzantine and the Ottoman architecture. Today, it is listed under the UNESCO World Heritage List just like the Blue Mosque, located directly across Hagia Sophia. After visiting these two mosques, take a four minute walk to Basilica Cistern. This newly renovated underground water reservoir has 336 columns and two Medusa Heads. It takes around 15 minutes to walk around the Cistern, but it definitely is one of the most breathtaking historic sites in Istanbul. And you cannot skip Topkapı Palace, the main residence of Sultans and the administrative center of the Ottoman Empire. Topkapı Palace Museum is famous for its collections of porcelain, robes, weapons, Ottoman miniatures, Islamic calligraphy manuscripts, jewelry and more. Moreover, it houses the most important remains of the Ottoman Empire, so you should spare at least half a day to spend in the Palace. 

Where to Eat: Pubs, Restaurants and Bars

Çiya Sofrası:

• Location: Kadıköy

• Concept: Traditional Turkish food 

• Recommended Food: Lahmacun

• Recommended Drink: Ayran (traditional yogurt drink)

Minoa:

• Location: Beşiktaş

• Concept: Book store and restaurant at the same time

• Recommended Food: Mücver (vegan)

• Recommended Drink: Red Wine

Varuna Gezgin:

• Location: Taksim

• Concept: A chill pub with great interior design and a menu with different cuisines around the world

• Recommended Food: Kajun Basket (Fried chicken with french fries)

• Recommended Drink: Efes Beer

Karaköy Duble Meze:

• Location: Karaköy

• Concept: Dinner with rakı at first and then turns into a club after 11 pm (feel free to stand up in your chair and dance along to  some 2000s Turkish pop)

• Recommended Food: Fixed menu of traditional meze (like tapas)

• Recommended Drink: Rakı (Beylerbeyi Göbek Serisi)

A quick Get-Away from the City: The Prince Island

It is not commonly known by tourists that Istanbul has five little islands. Whenever you are overwhelmed by the noise and the stress of the city, it is always a good idea to take a day-trip to the Prince Islands, or at least Heybeliada and Büyükada if your schedule is tight. Start your day with a hike in the forest to the Halki seminary where you will see lovely donkeys, peacocks, and horses. Then find your way through the abandoned Heybeliada Sanatorium, which was the first pandemic hospital in Turkey. After that comes the best part of the day; dinner, and by that, I mean Rakı and Balık (traditional Turkish alcohol and seafood). For that, take the ferry to Büyükada and make sure you make a reservation for Loc’ada Restaurant by the sea. With old, gloomy Turkish music, accompanied by the sound of crashing waves, Rakı Balık is the best way to bond with people on a deeper level, seeing as this whole tradition is based on trauma dumping. Believe me, you are going to feel so much better when you are drunk and running to catch the last ferry on a random Thursday night.